9/3/2019 Mazda 3 Bose Door Speaker Bracket
I've searched all over the place and found very limited information. I am a new proud owner of a 2015 Mazda 3 s Touring and it has the BOSE speakers. I quickly ran into rattling issues in the front door speakers and found online that many people had this issue as well.I've used gorilla glue to temporarily seal the cone back on to the speaker. This still introduces a small amount of rattle at high volumes but pretty much does the trick.
I am unsure how long the glue will last. This BOSE system has been such a pain. Is there a comparable or better aftermarket speaker I can put to replace the front subwoofer speakers? And is there already a custom bracket made to use for the speaker? And a wiring harness?I really want to avoid gutting the entire system, as I am mostly pleased so far. I really only want to add a subwoofer and call it a day.
I'm a noob and looking for the most plug and play option as possible. I saw that you can order the BOSE front door speaker part online for like $140. That would put me at around $300 just to replace the front door speakers and who knows if it will rust and fall apart again. Is that a more sensible option or is it worth it to put something aftermarket in there?Any help is appreciate and links are welcome, as I am learning all of this stuff. Thanks in advance.
6-3/4 speakers to replace Bose door speakers? Mazda-speed.com: May 15, 2019, 11:38:48 PM. Brackets would likely have to be self-manufactured with whatever chunks of metal with holes you could find at the hardware store. The Bose are 1/2 ohm speakers. Unless your changing the head unit or the amp you need them.
I have auditioned two speakers so far to replace the factory 8 inch speakers. I know they are listed as 9's, but they arent.
I hadn't posted about it yet because I wanted to find what I liked best first. So of the two I've tried I'll get into what each does best and why. But also I'll say if anyone is looking for an actual all around upgrade from the factory Bose woofers, you will need an external amp. In the 2016 with bose, the speaker is running at 1ohm getting 44 watts.
The only 8's I could find to run at 1ohm require much more that 44 watts. If you run a 2 or 4ohm speaker off the factory amp, you will be significantly lowering the power output. I used a 4 channel amp and bridged the channels to get 150watts into 2 channels @4ohms.Audition #1 Dayton Audio rs-225-480 watts rms6mm xmax33hz fsPro's: very clean sound.
No distortion up until the point of failure. Very nice sound, clean mid bass, and will play pretty low to an extent. (Low fs)Con's: these speakers will go from playing clean, to straight failure. Stick to the rms rating. If you feed these more than 80watts, even by a little, they will begin to fail. These speakers have good xmax rating.
While that's good for bass, it's bad for your door panel. ALOT of vibrations.I'd recommend these to anyone who listens at volume level 40 or less. Set amp at volume level 45, then when listening to music at max volume of 40, you will never run into problems with these speakers.Audition #2 Pioneer TS-SW2002d2 shallow mount 8 inch subwoofer150 watts rms2mm xmax65hz fsPro's: mounting depth, push terminals, power handling, good punch, great performance from 50hz to 200hzCon's: wont do a lot below 50hz. Very little xmax. This is sort of a pro and con in this case.
Xmax is going to help the lower you go in the frequency range. But the fact that I have these in a door, the low xmax means less door vibrations. Combine that with a very stiff suspension, the speaker is always going to be under control.
So just depends how you look at it and what sound you like.Comparison: The Pioneers sound much different from the Daytons. The Pioneers have better punch and they can handle all of the 150 watts. Daytons have a warmer sound a different will play lower, but that being said they don't do it well enough to leave out a dedicated subwoofer.Both of these speakers will benefit from a dedicated subwoofer to help with the lower notes.
After all, they are only 8's. I ended up leaving the pioneers in, and they are playing down to 50hz, that's where my 12's pick up and play from 50hz down to 25hz.Other options I'd consider is a JL Audio 8w1v3. I think it will fit the door. Or a JL MICRO sub, which has a 8w3v3 in a matched ported enclosure.
I havent measured, but if those micro subs fit under the seats, it may really be the best option. In that case you could run them under the front seats and just leave the front door speakers disconnected and you'd have no door vibration.Sorry for the individual images and for the novel.
I'll snap a few pics tonight when I get home. The outer measurement is 9 inch. But the cone itself is more like 8inch. There is also a ring on the inside of the door panel that ends up going around the speaker.
That ring also measures 8inches. I really should have taken more photos, but my installs are very time sensitive.
Gotta get that family time in too. I also want to add that this does require some minor modifications to the factory bracket.
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Also, I had to make an adapter ring as well. And I'd highly recommend speaker baffles to protect from water/moisture that gets in the door panel. That gray foam you see around the Pioneer speaker is the baffle. I used XTC 8inch speaker baffle from partsexpress.com. Basically the baffle extends around the speaker and into the door protecting the speaker. You cut the back of the baffle out to get the desired length you need it to extend.So the baffle goes around the speaker, and then the adapter ring goes around the baffle.
I secured everything together with 4 zip ties. Then the adapter ring attaches to the factory bracket just like the factory speaker does. As requested, here is some pics of the Bose 9' woofer. I still can't seem to upload the pics so that they show. Maybe because I'm doing it on my phone?? Anyhow, hope the pics are helpful. So this weird-looking、super-thin、cheap paper-cone door speaker is OEM Bose 9' 'woofer'?
Thanks for posting the photos!BTW, I posted your pictures with my iPhone. You can click your photo attachment to bring the photo up、copy the URL of the photo、click 'Insert Image' icon above during posting、and paste to fill in the URL field in the pop-up window.
It basically put your image URL within an 'IMG' and '/IMG' pair, and you can see the format when you do 'Reply With Quote'. So this weird-looking、super-thin、cheap paper-cone door speaker is OEM Bose 9' 'woofer'?
Thanks for posting the photos!BTW, I posted your pictures with my iPhone. You can click your photo attachment to bring the photo up、copy the URL of the photo、click 'Insert Image' icon above during posting、and paste to fill in the URL field in the pop-up window. It basically put your image URL within an 'IMG' and '/IMG' pair, and you can see the format when you do 'Reply With Quote'.Ahhhh. I see how you did it. Thanks again. And ya the speakers do look a little funny. Small neo magnet on the front of the speaker.
The Surround looks to be foam, which really wont hold up over time. I will say that it performs well enough to most likely keep the masses happy. And I doubt that Bose is worried about the relatively small group of us who know enough to question them lol. Mazda's I have owned over the years. Did you notice a difference in loudness?The Dayton is rated at 91 dB at 2.83V (2 watts into 4 ohms). The Pioneer is rated at 86 dB and is 2 ohms.IF.
the Pioneer is rated at 1 watt into 2 ohms, the equal one watt rating for the Dayton is 88 dB. The Pioneer will require almost 2x the amplifier to match the output of the Dayton. Neither has the best Qts for a non-sealed door.
For both the efficiency and the low Fs, I'd pick the Dayton. It only needs a small touch of EQ below 80Hz.I think you just made my decision for me!!!!!Do you have a pic of the factory bracket/mounting plate? Did you notice a difference in loudness?The Dayton is rated at 91 dB at 2.83V (2 watts into 4 ohms). The Pioneer is rated at 86 dB and is 2 ohms.IF. the Pioneer is rated at 1 watt into 2 ohms, the equal one watt rating for the Dayton is 88 dB. The Pioneer will require almost 2x the amplifier to match the output of the Dayton. Neither has the best Qts for a non-sealed door.
For both the efficiency and the low Fs, I'd pick the Dayton. It only needs a small touch of EQ below 80Hz.I think you just made my decision for me!!!!!Do you have a pic of the factory bracket/mounting plate?At 80watts. The Daytons are definitely louder. At 1 point I had a Dayton on the left and pioneer on the right. The Daytons are very good, play lower with no distortion. But can't play to low while handling the power.
As a matter of fact, I might even say to back off the 80 watts a little for the Daytons. Or find that crossover sweet spot.
I was playing them down to 40hz. The Pioneers will get just as loud once given the right power. They are actually DUAL 2ohm. So you can either wire them to 1ohm or 4ohms. They simply won't play lower than about 50-60 hz. Only 2mm xmax.
But they do have a clean crisp sound to them and handle power no problem. I really think a speaker with specs more like the Dayton, but can handle more power like the pioneer would be the best bet. 8w1v3 looks like a great option. There's also a good amount of 8inch mid bass and subwoofers at parts express. There's definitely other options. Also sensitivity ratings don't tell the whole story. To many variables, and different companies measure sensitivity different ways.
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Still a good spec to look at though. Here's a pic of the bracket.
The only one I had. Great threads, Tone. Been waiting for someone to actually do exactly this (and the dash speakers) with the Bose package.Thanks. Gald I could be helpful. Oh and it didn't take a month after all. After having the Pioneers in for a week, something just sounded like it was missing.
So I did another A/B comparison against the Dayton. Dayton in the passenger door on 80 watts. Pioneer in driver door on 130ish watts. 80hz crossover which really helped cut down the door vibrations big time, and just a good crossover point for both the subs and midbass speakers. I need to mention I haven't noticed anymore power handling issues with the Dayton using the 80hz crossover point.
On a side note, from what I can tell the doors play up to about 200-250 hz range. Well the Dayton was clearly doing a better job, hands down. It plays higher, lower, more efficient, just as loud on less power, and just a better richer sound. The first round with the Daytons I was just playing them to low. I had taken my subs out and was trying to get subwoofer type bass from a midrange speaker with much less cone area and power handling then my subs. Basically I was expecting to much from this speaker. Now with my subs back in, crossover @80 hz, the Daytons really shine.
Really good speaker. To get a more sound quality balanced sound, I brought the gain down on my subwoofer amp. Also to take it easy on the stock electrical system since I'm running two amps now, and to cut down on vibration. Pushing 600watts to the subs, (down from 1200 watts) and sometimes even less than that via a bass knob, the blend is really really good. Also put my subs in a new box. Jl bass wedge box that down fires.
Saved me some room. I can still get groceries in the back and even a stroller! Barely, but it fits. So the other Dayton will be going back in this week.
I ordered the Pioneers from Walmart, and luckily I can return them to any local store for a full refund. There is other midbass speakers out there, but at this price point and performance, I really think these Daytons will be hard to beat. When I put the other Dayton back in, I'll snap a few more photos. Quick update.
I know I haven't posted in a while. I was pretty content with my system until I blew another Dayton. Being that this was the 2nd time, in a short time frame, I didn't even bother with the warranty. If I couldn't run them at there rated rms down to 60-70hz range, I don't want them.
Jl audio zr800's were available on amazon for $175 each. Normally $229each. I've never been let down by, or blown jl sub, and read they are arguably the best midbass speaker you can buy when in the proper configuration. For this speaker that means playing down to 60hz and up to 300-500hz.
Perfect for the bose system in the cx5. Long story short I pulled the trigger and have had them installed about 2 weeks now. Comparing specs vs the Daytons, the JL's have a higher fs, more xmax, more motor strength, and lower sensitivity.
The Daytons spec claims more cone area, but I don't see how, especially since it has a fixed phase plug which takes away from cone area. Regardless, my only worries about the JL where that, what if it doesn't play lower enough, or loud enough since the fs is higher and sensitivity lower than the Dayton. So for a fair test I changed nothing on my amp. Fed the JL's the same 80watts rms and didn't move the crossover. The result is that you clearly get what you pay for. On the same power, the JL's are louder, have more punch and play lower with absolutely no distortion.
Again, I didn't move the crossover at all, but the low end has more authority than the Dayton. All around just does a better job.
I liked it so much I didn't bother trying the 125watts rms they are rated at. Just left everything as is.
What may have helped as well was the fact that I made new adapter rings out of 3/4 inch mdf instead of using the flimsy plastic ring I made the 1st time around. I think I'm getting a better seal against the door now.
Anybody planning to install an amp and some new 8's in the doors, the JL zr800's is what you need to get. They are pricey, but just save up because they fit the application in this car perfect and are well worth the money.
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